Thursday, February 24, 2011

About Italian Food: Well, Winter is Back... Sort Of

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From Kyle Phillips, your Guide to Italian Food
It has gotten colder again, with frost in the mornings and temperatures in the 40s during the day, which seem cold to me now but that wouldn't impress many in northern Europe nor North America after the winters they have had this year -- just how little can be deduced by the American students who are wandering around Florence in t-shirts and shorts, thus contrasting considerably with he bundled up Italians. Since it seems cold to me, and is cold elsewhere, we'll concentrate on heart-warming stews.

Cacciucco alla Livornese
I know, I said we'd be looking at stews, and this is a mixture of fish. But it is simmered in with tomatoes, and is served over toasted bread, and if made with the right hot peppery zing will warm you quite nicely. Moreover, it's inexpensive, traditionally made from the what the fishmonger still had at the end of the day, and because of this is never quite the same twice. But it is good!
See More About:  italian soups  fish soups  fish recipes

Scottiglia Aretina
Scottiglia is a classic dish of the Arezzo region, a masterpiece among stews whose origins are remote: some suggest it was brought by Spanish immigrants. Others see it as the terrestrial analog of Cacciucco, the fisherman's stew of the Tyrrhenian waters.
To make a first rate scottiglia you'll need a variety of meats: veal, chicken, rabbit, pork, guinea hen, pigeon, and whatnot; if there's game as well so much the better. Chop the meat into fairly large pieces...
Scottiglia from the Maremma, west of Arezzo
See More About:  italian meats  game  stews

Brasato al Barolo
This is one of Piemonte's signature winter dishes, and though (to be quite honest) I'd only use corked Barolo to make it -- the corked flavor doesn't survive cooking, and in the absence of corked Barolo I'd go with Nebbiolo d'Alba or even a tannic Tuscan red -- I would be very happy to drink a Barolo with it. 2006 is a bit young, but 2004 or 2001 would be very nice.
See More About:  italian meats  beef  rump

Pastisada de Caval
Yes, caval means horse, and this is indeed a traditional Veronese horse meat stew, made with Amarone wine and paprika to taste -- the former local, and the latter revealing Austro-Hungarian influences from the period when the Veneto was part of the Austrian empire.
If the idea of eating horse bothers you, you can use beef instead -- it won't be quite as rich in iron, but will still be very good. Or you could use game.
See More About:  italian meats  horsemeat  stews

 


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This newsletter is written by:
Kyle Phillips
Italian Food Guide
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