Sunday, December 26, 2010

About Italian Food: Thoughts After Christmas: The Crown Roast

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From Kyle Phillips, your Guide to Italian Food
I trust all who Celebrated Christmas had a wonderful time and didn't overindulge. Though to be honest I can only go so far in advising against overindulging this time: My brother-in-law brought us a Gran Pezzo, or crown roast weighing about 12 pounds (5 k), and I asked a Leonardo Romanelli, a number of whose recipes are on site, for advice that worked out spectacularly well.
Now then, prepare an aromatic salt by chopping peeled garlic, rosemary needles, sage, and black peppercorns and mixing them with fine marien salt. Spread the mixture over the roast.
Preheat your oven to 220 C (440 F). While it's heating scrape 2-3 carrots, peel a couple of onions, and rinse a couple of celery ribs. Coarsely chop all three, lightly oil a roasting pan, and line the bottom with the vegetables.
Set the roast over them and put it into the oven. Figure 20 minutes per kg (this would be 8-9 minutes per pound) for a rare roast. When the time is up remove the roast from the oven and warp it in aluminum foil for 10 minutes before carving it.
We served it with peas, spinach, and baked potatoes Leonardo didn't suggest, peeled, chopped and added to the roasting pan, where they soaked up the drippings beautifully.
It came out somewhere between rare and medium-rare, and was extremely good. The wine? Several, the most impressive of which (for me) was a 1979 Caparzo Brunello my father bought in 1983. I had doubts about it because the cork was iffy, but it was very much alive, in a rich very mature key, with all sorts of leaf tobacco and more.

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This newsletter is written by:
Kyle Phillips
Italian Food Guide
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