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 | A while ago -- longer than it should be, and I apologize -- Beth Elon sent me a copy of her book, A Culinary Traveller in Tuscany. She, like me, was bit by the Italy bug, though differently: She and her husband chanced upon an abandoned farmhouse in the foothills of the Appennini towards Pistoia, bought it, and gradually and casually restored it (too casually, she says in the introduction: "when you don't add a fireplace to the living room it never gets done.") And in time discovered the village just above their house, which had been a tenant farmer's podere in the midst of his lands, and became part of the village, learning to do things the traditional way -- canning by the phase of the moon, for example. Eventually the house stopped being a summer home, and became their permanent residence.
She is blessed with a beautiful way of stringing words together and a keen eye for detail, and her book, which is subtitled "Exploring & Eating off the Beaten Track," is a great deal of fun. And apt; she avoids the parts of Tuscany in which one is most likely to meet a foreigner (Chianti, for example), rather going up into the Casentino (the craggy highlands between Florence and Arezzo) and the Alta Valle Teverina, or to the Valle Del Serchio (behind Lucca), which is as wild and steep-sided as any valley you'll find in the Alps. The closest she comes to Florence is Montelupo, a town once known for its spectacular ceramics, but that many modern Florentines associate primarily with the Manicomio criminale, or Home for the Criminally Insane.
Of course Beth doesn't discuss the Home; rather, she starts out by noting that Montelupo is still a hotbed of ceramicists, and says it's her favorite place to buy wedding gifts, and after discussing several artisans, takes us along the winding back roads to San Miniato, a town whose stature as a white truffle capital rivals Alba's, and whose history is simply fascinating. From there we go to Montopoli Val D'Arno, which is now much sleepier than it once was, though there are flashes of elegance, and on to Palaia, another one of those pretty towns of the kind most people stumble upon (with joy) when they make a wrong turn and follow the road to see where it goes.
But there's more to the book; each itinerary is followed by a section dedicated to local specialties, and since San Miniato is a truffle capital we get to tag along as she accompanies a truffle hunter who is training a young dog to find the elusive tubers. And then there are notes on restaurants, and the dishes most noteworthy, with... Recipes.
All sorts of things, from mushrooms packed in oil to gnocchi with hazelnut sauce to risotto with apples and shrimp. And this is just one of the ten itineraries!
It's a beautiful book to read, and even if you're not planning to get into a car and drive (public transportation is not an option here) you will very much enjoy it. And, who knows? You may find yourself planning an unexpected trip...
Practical things: A Culinary Traveller in Tuscany Exploring and Eating off the Beaten Track By Beth Elon, © 2006 The Little Bookroom 1755 Broadway, Fifth Floor NY NY 10019 http://www.littlebookroom.com ISBN-10 1-892145-36-7 On Amazon | |
Auguri Per San Valentino!
Valentino was, according to legend, a Christian priest who was consigned to a Roman noble by the Emperor Claudius. He cured the noble's daughter's blindness, at which point the family converted and Claudius had them all killed. Valentino first, and on the eve of his execution he wrote the girl a letter, signing it "from your Valentine." After his death a pink almond tree, symbol of abiding love, blossomed near his grave. A beautiful testament, and you'll find a couple of menus on site, one loving and the other racier. Some other ideas:
What to drink on San Valentino? Bollicine -- bubbly -- of course. It's hard to beat Franciacorta!
And for the day after?
A Light Euro Dinner: A quick vegetable-based meal for two that's a perfect way to break the ice, from my review of Eat Dangerously!
| Not Celebrating Valentino? Carnevale, Then
Carnevale, otherwise known as Mardigras or Shrove Tuesday, is -- officially -- the day before Ash Wednesday, a last occasion for a little merriment and some fine food before the beginning of that period of spiritual renewal known as Lent.
However, in practice, Italians celebrate Carnevale for several weeks prior to Ash Wednesday, dressing up in costumes and having parties to counter the chill, dull winter days. Venice is especially well known for her Carnival celebrations, and you'll find traditional Carnival recipes accompanying the photos.
Not interested in background? The Carnival recipe Index
| Or Even Lent
Many people associate Lent -- the 40 days prior to Easter -- with penance and privation. Not so, according to one of the nuns close to Pope John Paul II, who says Lent is actually a time for reflection and meditation to prepare the spirit for the rebirth of Christ, and as such is joyful.
Doing away with meat? She doesn't say, but I'd guess cutting back on meat is a way of distancing ourselves from the earthier side of human nature. And it's healthy too. Some options: Lots of options!
| 10 Dishes to Keep the Chill at Bay
In winter, Italian cooking changes: The dishes become richer and heavier, to better stick to the ribs, and cooking times become much longer, because a slowly bubbling pot works wonders, spreading warmth and cheer throughout the home. Hearty soups, rich stews, and more. In short, comfort food.
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