Thursday, September 23, 2010

About Italian Food: Baskets full of Grapes...

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From Kyle Phillips, your Guide to Italian Food
It is that time of year, and the vines are heavy with ripe grapes, so one would expect winemakers to be eagerly preparing to bring them in and transform them into wine. And some are. However, because of the economic slowdown others still have last year's wine in their tanks, and some have made the terrifying (to me) decision to leave the grapes where they are. Or invite people to take what they want, and wife E's aunt A gave us at least 10 pounds of grapes yesterday. Beautiful, sweet, firm grapes, and we'll be putting them to use, making jelly and schiacciata con l'uva. To be honest, I'd rather the winemaker had threatened trespassers with a shotgun rather than inviting A into the vineyard, but these are the times we live in.

Schiacciata Con L'Uva
One of the nicest things about autumn in Tuscany is Schiacciata con l'Uva, an astonishingly rich, sinfully juicy wine grape pie whose country roots are clearly revealed by the dough and the crunchiness of the grape seeds. This is a fairly elegant, city version, in which the traditional lard and honey have been replaced by olive oil and sugar.

A Traditional Shciacciata Con L'Uva Recipe

Schiacciata Con L'Uva, Illustrated

Pasta Al Forno
Pasta al Forno is baked pasta, and though there are a few baked pasta recipes that are nice in summer (pesto lasagna, for example) it really is a cooler weather dish, and now that it has actually begun to see cool at night it's time to start thinking about firing up the stove. You can, if you want, use lasagna sheets that don't require preboiling (make the sauce slightly more liquid if you do), but I prefer the texture of lasagna made with boiled sheets of pasta.

It's Also Polenta Time
Polenta is corn meal mush, and as such is not something a non-Italian would necessarily identify with The Peninsula. But it was the staple food of the northern poor, especially those living in the country, and while this was not good -- a diet of just polenta leads to pellagra -- polenta is an excellent accompaniment to all manner of stews and sauces, and is wonderful baked too. So northerners still enjoy polenta as often as they can -- but not just by itself.

Pecorino Romano: Roman in what sense?
Though one might expect Pecorino Romano to be made around Rome, and perhaps in the Alban Hills, its production area is considerably wider, extending into southern Tuscany and also Sardegna, which is where the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Pecorino Romano, the organization that oversees the production of Pecorino Romano, has its offices. Why would the organization overseeing the production of a Roman cheese have its offices off in Sardegna?

 


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This newsletter is written by:
Kyle Phillips
Italian Food Guide
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